Resin Casting Project

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I found this fantastic resin casting idea from ResinObsession - a fun blog dedicated to casting resin (supplies and projects). For my first resin experiment, I decided to play with this idea.

http://blog.resinobsession.com/2009/06/how-to-make-resin-jewelry-with-swirly.html

(You can see on the Resin Obsession blog that this project actually came from another blogger, Monika Rose, and her blog is: http://monikarosecrochets.blogspot.com/)

I got all my supplies in order, making sure to cover my work table, which, was a really good thing as I tend to make a mess and resin casting is no exception. As always, I opened the windows and turned on a fan.
So, the basic Ingredient List:
  • Pearl Ex Pigments
  • Casting Resin and necessary mixing supplies
  • Molds (I used ice cube trays) and Mold Release (I used cooking spray)
  • Toothpick or unfolded paper clip
  • Extra cups to mix different pigments in
  • Popsicle Sticks
  • Heat Gun
  • Gloves
  • Any extra embellishments or inclusions (I used a seashell)
Basic Procedure:
  • Mix your resin, following the directions. For Ice resin, it's a 1:1 ratio of resin to hardener. I used a recycled plastic baby food container to mix the resin and hardener together. 
    • TIP: Fold/mix together gently to prevent lots of little bubbles. I didn't pay attention to this and so I got... lots of little bubbles. For this project though, I kind of think it works.
  • Using a dry popsicle stick, measure out tiny amounts of Pearl Ex Pigment into different cups. I used the lids of recycled plastic baby food containers. 
    • TIP: The fewer pigments you use, the more pronounced each color will be in the finished product. 
    • TIP: A little big goes a long way, baby. The amount I show in the picture was really too much for what I was doing. Mix up smaller batches - you can always make more.
  • Pour a small amount of the clear resin into the mold. Then, using either a toothpick or the paper clip, swirl in a few drops of pigmented resin. Experiment with different amounts of color.
    • TIP: Too much pigment, and the colored resin will sink in the clear resin.
  • You can add any extra embellishments you like. I organized all the embellishments I thought I might want to play with on the broken mancala board - I think it's quite handy. I decided to add a small seashell for this project.
  • Once you are satisfied, let the resin begin the curing process in a warm, dry, non-dusty place. (Sorry about the blurry pic). You may want to put your molds under a clean cardboard box.

Basic Resin Casting Tutorial : Candy Inclusions

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Resin Casting is a super fantastic method of making your own unique beads and pendants. This tutorial will walk you through the process of casting resin using candy inclusions. It is important to remember that resin casting is a process; each step will take it's own time. If you're short on patience, I suggest working on multiple casting projects at once. Start a casting one day, then another the next. You can rotate steps and get to work on something new and fun each day, rather than waiting for what can seem like ages.

For this fun and unique project you will need the following materials:

Ice Cube Trays - There are plenty of different shaped ice cube trays, which work just as well as candy molds, or molds used for poly clay etc.
Cooking Spray - Or you can buy a much more expensive bottle of spray mold release
Casting Resin - I used Ice Resin for this project, but feel free to use whatever casting resin you can find or have worked with already
Candy - I will be using Sprinkles (AKA Jimmies) for this toutorial, but you can try various kinds in your own resin casting. Try M&Ms, Nerds, Swedish Fish, whatever strikes your fancy.
Other Inclusions - Fun things like jewelry findings, other candy etc 
Cardboard Box - Something like a shoebox
Gloves, Disposable Cups, Trash Bag, Paper Towels, Popsicle Sticks

Part One : Get yourself organized and prepared!
  • You want to start by preping your work surface. Cover your table (or what-have-you) with a trash bag, or plastic table cloth. (It's worth noting that I save all the trash bag and use it for as many projects as possible.) I also lay down an old sheet which was donated to the messy art cause a couple years ago.
  • Assemble all of your materials - resin does not begin to cure super fast or anything, but it can be a bit of a messy process, so you will want to have everything close at hand once you have begun. Make sure you also have a trashcan nearby, and lots of ventilation. Resin can smell pretty strongly - if you are sensitive to that sort of thing, take reasonable precautions.
  • *READ THE INSTRUCTIONS WITH YOUR CASTING RESIN*
  • Prep the Molds :) Some molds don't really require any sort of releasing agent - mainly those that are soft and can easily be twisted so the cured resin will pop out. If you are using certain types of plastic, or molds that will not really allow for much "twisting room" take the easier road and spray them lightly with cooking spray. Remember, a lot goes a long way. Wipe out the excess with a paper towel and you will save yourself tons of time and stress. (Not to mention molds!)
Part Two: Mix your resin
  • You need to do this following the exact directions that came with your resin. Slight changes in the catalyst or hardener to resin ratio will mess up the entire batch. Play close attention to what you are doing. 
  • Measuring Tip: The Ice Resin Kit comes with four liquid medicine cups for measuring out the resin/hardener. If you're out of the cups, or your kit didn't come with any try this: pour water into a disposable plastic cup - about half the total amount of resin you plan on using. Mark the cup with a sharpie. Pour the water into a second cup and mark the level. Pour out all water and dry out cups. Use lines to measure the equal amounts of resin/hardener as per the directions that came with your resin.
  • Mixing Tip: Fold or gently stir the resin and hardener (or catalyst) together to prevent millions of totally unnecessary bubbles from forming.
Part Three: Let the Creativity Begin
  • Start by pouring a thin layer of resin into the mold. This will ensure that none of the candy is exposed. Let it set for a bit. I suggest doing several pieces at once - it's more economical with the resin, and it won't be a complete loss if, say, one of your pieces doesn't make it.
  • At this point, you may have tons a wee little bubbles in your resin. Try gently waving a heat gun over 'em to bring the to the surface and send the little buggers packing. Just don't get so close that the resin goes flying out of the mold.
  • Next, if you are going to add any inclusion, other than the sprinkles (or other "base" candy") add this now. Working in resin can be a lot like working in layers of paint. Think of this as like the foreground to a painting. Anything you add after this point will be like a mid-ground and background.
  • You can add another thin layer of resin at this point, or you can just sprinkle on the sprinkles. When it comes to thickness, it's up to your preference. I personally don't really like big thick and chunky pieces. Also, I think you are more likely to have complications  with the resin curing process if the pieces get too thick.You can experiment to find the best thickness for your resin.
  • Once you are satisfied with the candy inclusions, add a final layer of resin. This will seal in the candy for good.
  • You've added more resin, so you may have more bubbles. Follow the same technique, but be extra careful not to let the heat gun get too close - remember that candy melts.
Part Four: Let it Cure
  • At this point, you have completed the most fun part, and you just have to let the resin do it's thing - it's got to cure. Just like with plaster of paris and concrete, the liquids in resin don't evaporate, but rather a chemical reaction takes place which casues it to solidify - thus the curing process. Curing will be affected by environment conditions. Here are some general rules to keep in mind:
    • The cooler the environment, the longer the curing time. It may also result in as sticky finish on the piece that will never really go away. You may try wet sanding though...
    • The warmer the environment, the shorter the curing time, however, if it gets too warm, the resin won't go through it's normal curing process and can turn a gross yellow.
    • A humid, damp environment can cause the resin to get cloudy.
  • Set the resin molds in a safe place where they won't be disturbed, and protect them from dust by covering them with a clean, upturned box. They will need to cure at least over night, depending upon the resin you used and the thickness of your pieces. You may be able to remove them from the mold prior to the complete curing time, but be careful to not damage them, as they may still be slightly soft or sticky.

Technique: Allure of Resin

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Resin beads and pendants are totally customizable and unique. The possibilities are really endless. You can play around with shape, with color, texture, size, design, embellishments and inclusions. It is virtually impossible to make two resin pendants alike.

To begin with, you need to choose what resin you want to work iwht. I anticipated numerous options, but as it turned out, my local Micahels didn't even sell resin and there are only a few jewelry supply sites that do. I have discovered these brands:

Ice Resin – a two part kit containing the resin and a hardener (think of this as like the developer in a hairdye kit – it's what makes it work)
Easy Cast – another 2 part kit
Resin De Solei – has aspecial compound that reacts with sunlight or ultraviolet light to cure more quickly
There's another resin out there (the brand escapes me) which you must purchase a separate catalyst for (kind of like the hardener in the Easy Cast and Ice Resin kits) I didn't want to fuss with the specific measurements.

I settled with an Ice Resin kit (with measuring cuts, stirrers etc from fusionbeads.com (Free shipping!)

The next step is to figure out what you're going to pour the resin into. You have two basic options: you can pour it into a mold (or some object that will act like a mold), or you can pour it into an object, which will become part of the pendant.

Molds: You already know I'm all into recycling, so, while you can purchase some great resin molds, or candy molds, you can also use some great every-day stuff to make your own molds. Hey, it's not only Green :) but FREE! Got a box of chocolates? Great! Use the tray to create fun small bead molds. Ate with some plastic spoons? - that's ok – wash and reuse them as molds. Once you start looking for objects, you'll find them everywhere.
An important note.... just like when baking, you're not going to get those chocolate-chip cookies off the sheet if you didn't grease it! Remember to spray the molds with either a release spray or cooking spray (I have ready that cooking spray works just as well, and is a whole lot cheaper).

Permanent Holders: These are the kinds of resin pendants most of us are used to seeing. They're often pretty shallow indentations, perfect for paper media embellishments.
Collage Frames: are fun and easy with a loop already on the top for stringing. All you have to do is add your fun stuff and pour the resin. The down side is (for me anyways) they're kind of pricey, at around $5 a pop. I found some plated ones at fusionbeads.com that were a bit more reasonable.
Bottle Capes: are recycled, generally deeper than collage frames and hey – you can probably get them for free! You can buy some fun vintage ones, or blank ones, or you can opt to just keep the beer or soda logo on the back of ones you've collected from friends etc. I suppose you may be able to also paint over it. You can epoxy on a bail to make it stringable, or, before you pour in your resin, you can make a wire loop, bend it into the cap, and when the resin has cured, it will be secured. It is also possible to buy bottle caps with tiny holes already drilled for jewelry making.
Bezels: are unique metal findings that are like empty cups of all different shapes and sizes. I found that although they are pretty... they can cost and arm and a leg too. (ok... they aren't really all that bad... if you like 'em, try 'em out and let me know if they're worth it). I found a suggestion for making your own bezel out of a circle copper blank (already with a loop on the top) like you'd use for metal stamping. You basically put the blank in a concave form and gently hammer the blank into into it, until the blank is also concave. It's an interesting idea, which I plan to try... some day.
Other found objects: as with the molds, once you start looking for recyclable things to incorporate into your resin pendants and beads, you will find them everywhere. One great idea is to use old spoons of various sizes. Talk about unique!

Alright, so, you have your resin, and you have your base (mold or other) now what do you want to do with it? The possibilities are literally endless, but I will list a few here:

Color:
inks ( like alcohol inks)
concentrated color resin, translucent or opaque
oil paints (I read some vague blurb about this... must do more research)
resin compatible dye
mica pigments

Texture and cool-ness
embossing powder
micro beads
micro glass chips (which is actually what vintage glitter is made from – be careful though)
glitter ( you can try various weights – chunky, fine, ultra-fine etc)

Embellishments
metal findings
stuff in miniature (check out minikitz.com)
candy or food items
photographs, paper scraps
fabric
dried or fresh flowers etc
insects (though... that can be a little gross http://www.etsy.com/shop.php?user_id=5342282)
whatever odds and ends you find